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Built (not working) > Tom Ferko
Tom Ferko's Vertical Bowman Magnetic Motor
(not working yet)
Tom was working on a this prior to meeting Douglas Mann. He is now
taking advice from Mann in order to get the device operating. Using stacked magnets.
 
Posted in Reverse Chronology: most recent first:
Sent: Friday, March 05, 2004 8:16 AM
Subject: Bowman Motor update
Hi Sterling and Douglas, Would you please post the Bowman Completed jpeg and this
letter on the web site? I decided to throw in the towel on the Bowman. I have
spent to much time, energy, and money placed in what you see here. Perhaps
with a little more tweaking here or there the unit might operate for someone. I don't know. It has
powerful magnets in its construction. If someone has time to spend and gets it
going it should turn super fast. I have made my decision to sell everything you see in the
photo including a very expensive torque wrench for $230 and at that price someone will buy a super
bargain. The 16 neo magnets are 1/2 inch in diameter and stacked to 2.5 inches in length. A
very expensive dial type torque wrench goes with it. I will pay all
UPS ground shipping within the USA. I have other irons in the fire that I need money
for. The whole unit can be taken apart/put back together within one minute using the
Allen wrenches you see in the photo. The other black small strange looking thing is a shaft clamp
/adapter so you can torque any shaft. $230 buys everything you see in the photo
and I pay shipping as stated.
If it is not sold within a week I will put it on Ebay and sell it. If
no sale there I will place it in the Ebay Modern Sculpture/art category as it sure will
generate table conversation. I left the motor base wood plain so it can be stained to match
any wooden decor. Sculpture and art work goes for a lot more than I am
asking. Tom Ferko
Sent: Friday, February 13, 2004 12:43 AM
Subject: Re: how goes it?
Hi Sterling, I have been very busy lately with family matters. I hope within a week to have
the Bowman up and running if the gauss lines are kind to me. I will keep you posted with
results whichever way it goes. Tom Ferko
Sent: Monday, February 02, 2004 4:35 PM
Subject: Re: Unit T.F-1-2003; Using $6.00 Gauss meter to balance
rotor
Hi Douglas, Here is the latest photo with the two smaller rotors lowered down near to the main
rotor. They are not in their final positions in this photo. I also have the actuator magnet bound
with tape to a ( red) L bracket I made. Its is set in epoxy on the L bracket. The epoxy
is drying and in the meantime tape is holding it in position.
A note to anyone who is positioning their actuator magnet. Be sure you have it mounted very
securely. The plastic clamp you see here was unable to hold it in place. That's how powerful the
forces acting on it are. . I have a small/strong all aluminum C clamp coming to do this job. Once
the motor starts you will need a very SECURE mounting system that you will be able to remove or
install the actuator magnet VERY QUICKLY also.
Anything less than very quickly and securely and your actuator magnet if not really handled
properly will leave the scene to the nearest gauss field it is attracted to. That will happen in a
heart beat. I found that out fast.
Sterling, Would you remove the one jpeg I sent you where I have the actuator magnet with two
small jars of red and blue paint sitting on the top of it? At that time I thought the actuator
magnet had poles at each end as illustrated in that jpeg. That jpeg might confuse someone who
is starting to build the motor. The actuator magnet is not correct in that photo. In this
latest jpeg photo most everything is almost positioned correctly. Note I said
almost. Tom Ferko
Sent: Sunday, February 01, 2004 11:40 PM
Subject: Unit T.F-1-2003; Using $6.00 Gauss meter to balance
rotor
I spoke with Tom Ferko today about his progress in replicating the Bowman Motor.
Instead of solid magnets, he is stacking off-the-shelf magnets, using a 1.5 inch magnet in the
middle and one 0.5 inch magnet on each end. Once thus stacked, the three magnets together
give a ratio of 1:5; diameter to length.
He has fastened a plastic cylinder inside the holes of the rotors, into which he inserts his
magnet sets.
His magnet supplier said that the magnets he received were cut from the same material, hence they
are very uniform in their magnetic strength and characteristics. Tom verified this with his
Gauss meter.
Tom has been able to accomplish a balanced state by using the $6.00 Gauss meter kit he told us
about.
First, he balances the magnets in the main rotor.
He does this by drawing a thin line precisely at the center of 1" edge of the main rotor,
which is 1/2" in from either face.
He has a mark on his Gauss meter, and he positions the Gauss meter right on the center mark.
He then moves the magnet one way or the other until he gets his "zero" reading.
In the photo here:
the Gauss meter probe is the rectangular piece of white plastic to which the red and black wires
are connected. The pick-up is located at the end of the plastic case. He said it
took him a couple of half-days to build the Gauss meter, and that it works marvelously. He
was able to get the main meter component for just $1.70 Newark Electronics.
In his case, the Zero reading -- at the center of the magnet -- is 2.54. (when
measuring from the outside of the
He said the meter is very sensitive, and he is able to get the magnets to a very tight tolerance
using the meter in this way, setting the magnets one by one.
Next he takes the main rotor off and puts one of the small rotors on. It doesn't matter
which one is next. In this example, he did the repulse rotor next.
He balances the magnets in a different way on the small rotors.
What he does is fasten his Gauss meter at a set distance from the pole end of the magnet that will
be facing the magnets on the main rotor, and he measures the Gauss reading on his probe.
He said the North end of the magnets in the repulse rotor gave a reading of 1.10. He then
did the next magnet, and moved it until it gave a reading of 1.10.
Because the magnets are so uniform in Gauss, their position was essentially the same
from one to the next, to give this same reading.
Tom then repeated this procedure for the attract rotor, except it was the South end of the magnet,
and the reading was 4.70.
He's awaiting arrival of a torque wrench in order to then gauge the spacing of the repulse rotor
in relation to the main rotor, as well as the attract rotor per the instructions at
He said torque wrenches are expensive. He has his actuator magnet made and ready to go.
He said that the actuator magnet will need to have something very sturdy to hold it in place
because the forces to push it aside are very strong. "A plastic clamp won't hold
it." He tried holding it with his hands against the frame, and he could feel it
wiggling as the rotor magnets went by it. He said that the rotor spins right by it with no
resistance when it is in the right position.
His sleeve for his rotors made out of Zinc; and his shaft is made of stainless steel.
He said he can tell that the magnets want to move out of position, so he's going to be gluing
them in place using a plastic sleeve with a ring that can grab the end and then glue the plastic
sleeve to the cylinder already in place.
I couldn't quite visualize what he had in mind for that so far as bracing the magnets so they
would not move -- and not moving the magnets in the process of bracing them.
The glue he has on order is a special polyethylene glue by Scotch Products, called Scotch
Weld 5008 - which comes in two parts that you combine, and that it is quite expensive.
Sterling
Sent: Tuesday, January 27, 2004 6:13 PM
Subject: Bowman model
Hi Sterling, You can totally update all the photos
of my Vertical Bowman you have on the web site.
This is the latest construction photo. (There is a mirror behind
it.) I am awaiting the actuator magnet and a small torque wrench. Shown is my $6
Gauss meter probe temporarily in place where the actuator magnet will be. Excess will be cut off
the three stainless shafts once I find true positions for all the rotors. The smaller
rotors will be lowered into place later near the main rotor. I have already balanced
the smaller rotors and main rotor using the Gauss meter.
I can hardly wait as I am real close to final testing. I can
clamp the actuator magnet any where I wish with this setup using a plastic C
clamp. Tom Ferko
Position of Actuator
For images referred to in this section, see: Orientation
of Actuator - parallel to shaft.
Sent: Monday, January 19, 2004 7:00 PM
Subject: Rotor and actuator magnet placement.
Hi Sterling, Here is what I have constructed so far as related to the
my actuator magnet. A photo jpeg is worth 10,000 words.
click for enlargement
NOTE: Feb. 2, 2004: The orientation of the actuator magnet is
incorrect. (Tom)
My actuator magnet is housed in the plastic square tube you
see that is clamped to my working table. My main rotor turns inside this table. I have put a
couple of color jars on the top of the magnet tube ends to indicate actuator
magnet polarity. Red is North. Blue is south. Question: Is this
correct placement and if it is not what is??? Tom Ferko
Sent: Monday, January 19, 2004 5:56 PM
Subject: Re:
Hi Sterling, I presently have my Bowman actuator magnet setup as per
the revised Bowman jpeg. So now as I understand I will have to set it up as per the
scan 17 jpeg? No or yes???
I really would like to see a jpeg photo of the actuator
magnet placement on Douglass' friends working Unit 0 model.
Tom Ferko
---- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, January 19, 2004 6:29 PM
Subject: Re:
Hi Tom,
Actually, the second figure is how I understood his description the
first time around; but his friend who has Unit 0 in his possession corrected me, and I
corroborated that with Doug. The actuator magnet is as presently described on the site
according to Doug and his friend.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, January 19, 2004 4:10 PM
Hi Sterling, This may seem a silly but I constructed
the Bowman motor actuator magnet not with it running parallel with the rotor shaft as per jpeg
question 1 --- but as per the jpeg question 2 .
I found the statement "parallel with the shaft misleading and confusing in the Douglas
construction descriptions. Tom
Overlap
Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2004 7:42 AM
Subject: Re: magnet overlap
Hi Sterling , I am going with neodymium 1/2 inch diameter magnets. So plan ''A" is the better
representation of what I should have done? I have not mounted my neo magnets yet
so I wish to know before I go ahead using plan "B".---- I can cut plan "A" if
needed. Yes go ahead and cut plan "A" or No use the "B"
plan??? Tom
click to enlarge
Sterling's Reply
Jan. 3, 2003
Hi Tom,
There are three issues here.
First, according to my understanding, plan "A" in your drawing is the one that is correct.
That is how Eric Vogels presents it in his animation that he worked closely with Doug in creating.
Second, the diameter of the magnets is not as much an issue as the ratio of diameter to length. It
needs to be close to 1 : 4.5
Third, the strength of the magnet is more an issue than its size. A particular strength of magnet
will have a window of diameters that will work. The higher the strength, the larger the rotors need
to be -- the greater the distance between magnets around the perimeter of the rotor.
We have not yet characterized what that window is. How big it is. How much leeway we have.
You are using stronger magnets than Doug (if I recall correctly), and a smaller diameter, so there
is a chance that your unit will not work because of overlapping fields interfering with the
principle design of the motor.
But hey, you have to rotors, you have the magnets, we're all curious to see if it will work!
Keep up the great work you are doing. You are in inspiration.
Sterling
Sent: Wednesday, December 31, 2003 2:42 PM
Subject: Vertical Bowman Design
In one top view the magnet rotor holes line up perfectly.
In the next view the magnet holes clear each other by 1/2 the diameter of a magnet.
 
I am using the 2:1 ratio. I am using 1/2 inch diameter neos.
So my magnet holes clear each other by 1/4 inch. I take it what I have
shown is a correct design?
In the side view jpeg I have shown how far I have
come. The rotor placement was temporary with the large rotor on the bottom, You might post
that picture on your web site and clear out my older photo.
Thanks, Tom Ferko
Sterling's Reply:
Jan. 2, 2003
When I talked to Doug last night, I asked him about the degree of overlap in your system between
the main rotor and the small rotors.
If your motor magnets, looking face on, in the horizontal position, are represented by dimes laying
on a table, your magnets are like two dimes laying next to each other.
Doug's are like two dimes, with one laying half way on top of the other.
The sketches we have on the site (not concordant with Doug's actual design) are like two dimes
sitting nearly a whole dime-width apart.
Eric Vogels simulation is the closest
approximation to what Doug has.
-- if I understand correctly.
Sent: Monday, December 29, 2003 8:00 PM
Subject: Finished magnet rotors
Hi Sterling, I just got my newly cut rotors back from a fellow
that used a special machine to cut them. Look at the jpeg.
This fellow can cut them for you from your plastic 1 foot square
for $25. You pay shipping both ways. They were cut perfectly so I am excited about going
ahead with this needless to say.
I am also contacting a fellow in China and looking to purchase
17 magnet rods that have been pre-tested there by a gauss meter for matching strength. If he can
test them for me and sell them with shipping included for $90 I will buy from him. Will let
you know. Tom
* * * * *
Sterling's Comment: Is the thickness of the magnets wall on perimeter of large rotor too
much? Doug said to cut the holes so the magnet just barely grazes the exterior."
As of Dec. 22, 2003
click for enlargement
Vertical Bowman Motor Construction
* * * * * * *
Negative (reveals more details of shape)
Gear tines show up better, as well as shape of mag. sleeve.
* * * * * * *
Sent: Monday, December 22, 2003 7:57 PM
Subject: Re: [PES_BMM] Orientation of Actuator Magnet
Hi Douglas,
In reality my design is identical to a horizontal design. I have sent a jpeg of the rotor head
configuration done up with old rotors. New ones are being cut. . Notice the two small drilled holes
in the nylon shaft column support. I will make a small support table for the actuator magnet ,
anchor it to the holes, and leave the rotor orientation the same as shown. Main rotor will now be on
the lower side next to the actuator magnet table. The top rotors will be the repel and attract.
Nothing has changed except I have put the weight of everything on the tops of 3 shaft
hardened ball bearings located in grease wells. The net result is almost friction free
turning. I am extremely excited about this. Still need your input whenever you get time
about allowable material thickness between rotor edges and actuator magnet.
Tom
See also
Contact
Page created by Sterling D.
Allan, Dec. 22, 2003
Last updated March 09, 2004
visits since Feb. 1, 2004
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