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Assembly Tips

In keeping with the design as presented by MXLO

See also: Communications from MXLO - 8-page compilation by Brian Prothro (RetroRocket59) from personal phone calls from MXLO and all email messages posted to the pes_mxlo Yahoo user group to date.
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Notice from MXLO "Parts/Plans" order page:

PLEASE NOTE: Not everyone will be able to build a working unit simply by reading and following the plans. Adjustment of the assembled unit is required as is patience in performing these adjustments.

Page Contents:

• Shielding Technique - "There is a flailing arm that extends forward to shield the repulsion as it spins." [hint given July 10, months after the original plans were conveyed]
• Like Threading a Needle from Across the Room (MXLO)
• Follow the Plans to the Letter
• Tips from Retrorocket59 - Thomas (MXLO) Phone Conversation
• More tips from MXLO compiled by RetroRocket59
• Stator Template -- Arrows Up (MXLO)
• No Metal in Rotor; Take Your Time (MXLO)
• Timing Procedure (MXLO)
• Not Same Position Starting as Running (MXLO)
• Zinc-Plated Neos Not Required
• Use fine thread to find Triangle center
• Coming into Focus
• Imbalance may be the objective
• Ring Magnets Preferable to Discs (MXLO)
• Rotor Magnets non-ring; shaft non-conductive (MXLO)
• Magnet Gauss level not Crucial (MXLO)
• MXLO on copper wire and aluminum strip
• Solder of Bearing not Essential (MXLO)
• No Need for Electrical Connect for Aluminum to Bearing (MXLO)
• Set Apparatus on Non-Mag. Table
• North on compass points to South polarity
• Finding North on Your Magnet, Without a Compass
• Wire Gauge Conversion Chart

Like Threading a Needle from Across the Room

Follow the Plans to the Letter

Tips from Retrorocket59 - Thomas (MXLO) Phone Conversation

• -Stronger Neodymium's should not be a problem.
• -The bearing does not need an "electrical" connection to the aluminum strip for the unit to work, but the strip is necessary to affect one of the stator fields.
• -The question everyone asks about the copper sheet versus wire is a non-issue, they just thought the wire developed more power.
• -you might as well "stick" the aluminum down, Thomas said the rotor can get going, but wobble would be a problem.  He relates that many people get slower rotation results.  There is at least one individual who cannot get it to turn after days.  This is unusual he said.
• -There will be a video SOON, for clients that will offer some details, like angles that have an effect on the speed of the rotor. Everyone who paid will get an email about these minor new detail, and I said few, he did not emphacise this.
• -The outer wire is just for output, it is not needed to run the unit.
• -He mentioned that it may not be critical, but they used the ceramic magnets on the rotor so they would have a weaker field, I mentioned 1/2" button magnets from Radio Shack and he said fine.  I use neos on the stator.
• -You may need to adjust the height of your rotor shaft, the magnets should be level with the center of the height of the stator.
• -Your rotor should spin FLAT, not wobbling, this was my interpretation of this brief statement that I cannot remember.

Construction tips:

• -If you could not open the 'WORKS' version of the instructions you received by email and had to use the HTML ones, there was some accidentally hidden text when I pasted it to WORD, so I had to select all the pages text and turn it "black" before I printed.
• -Once in WORD, you can click on and stretch the images to get
  excellent detail.
• -1/8 inch acrylic bends too easy (use 1/4") and my magnet constantly popped off due to the bending/curve, aaaargh.  It also, if bent, will put one stator face a bit closer to the rotor, possibly a problem.
• -I had to shim up the under-edge of my bearing because it rubbed on the aluminum tape below it.
• -If you buy a regular 1-3/8" x 5/8" inch bearing with grease in it that slows it down, pop the plastic (hopefully) seals off and use acetone repeatedly to remove ALL grease, (which will slow the bearing down) for this app the dry bearing is fine.  I went to a bearing supply and paid $8.50.
• -Use an instant glue with "gap filling" properties.  This is a "thicker" version you will find at the model/hobby shops.  And then later, acetone may remove the glue from the magnets for future use.
• -Ha Ha, Do not put magnets on two sides of your glue bottle, or when they find each other (which they will), you will have instant glue everywhere!
• -If you use magnets 25% bigger in O.D., then make you stator and rotor plates 25% bigger.  Rotor height must increase also to be centered.
• -I used photoshop on the images and reprinted them to make SURE the templates/plastic was in exact dimensions. 
• -If you cut your own wooden dowel for the rotor, put the cut end you made down, so the rotor attaches to the flattest end of the dowel - as purchased from the store.  I epoxy'd my rotor to dowel.

Last - Thomas said it was a very delicate "centering" of alignment, you had to keep trying with very delicate nudging.

I am a Do-It details person.  I would very much appreciate anyone else's critical feedback on construction.  It is my intent to share everything.  And if I get this working, I have ideas on a number of arrangements to attempt.  Maybe a few of us who get it working could each take different modifications to speed understanding.  I already have a long "short" list.  I also have a laser cutter for acrylic and a small fabrication warehouse with workers.  I do not want to take any market product or get rich (unless someone else creates the market, and it is FOR-SURE no big boys are coming out to stop it. I just want proof and play-time!

--- RetroRocket59 ---
[See RetroRocket59's Replication page]

More tips from MXLO compiled by RetroRocket59

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/pes_mxlo/message/451

From:  "retrorocket59" <brian@ziponline.com>
Date:  Sat Mar 13, 2004  4:54 pm
Subject:  Much of my info from MXLO

In the interest of getting us all on the same page, I have gone back
through my personal emails I received from MXLO and mostly have not
posted here. One of which led me recently to suggest what I had
suggested about aluminum alignment. I think you may find these very
helpful.

MXLO's commentary at the end is very revealing of their attitude,
which I commend. It is rare in F/E to have someone answer ALL your
emails and even call you - a show of confidence. If they are giving
this much away and have a non-disclosure to limit dissemination as
well, then they are not here to prove anything, nor owe anyone
anything.
...keeping it out there…
RetroRoctet59

Aluminum strip orientation not vital, but must be present
I had asked several questions about the aluminum plate. and... When
it works, is the aluminum strip perpendicular to one of the stator
plates, as some instruction photos show?:
"the Aluminum strip is vital to motion, period."
"The aluminum strip is only required to retard the stator/rotor
field. It need not be perpendicular to any particular stator strip."
(From other communications as well, I infer the aluminum helps
overcome the lock-up point.)

Rotor Height, Relative to Stator is Flexible
I asked about the rotor height:
"The point in adjustment can be higher than the center magnets, or
lower, to start rotation."

Cannot flip the stator over
I asked, If you flip the stator over, will it still work?
"No. We spent literally days trying to operate it in the position
with no success. We have sometimes also spent days trying to make it
run in the upright position without success. The thing we discovered
while experimenting with the device was that positioning marks would
be required. This would allow us to work from a certain position to
another. This would insure us that the device worked in that area
and also insure us that we have covered that area before moving to
the next. It is a zero point that must be achieved between stator
and rotor."

Gauge of Aluminum Strip
I asked, Can the aluminum be aluminum tape from the hardware store
or does it have to have thickness - 16 gauge you state?:
"I cannot answer that because we have never used tape. The material
list that we have is the materials we were told to use. The only
change (...in the instructions) that was made was the change from a
copper sheet to the coil. This was done because we were able to
produce a higher VDC reading."

Magnet Strength
I asked, have you tried rotor magnets equivalent in strength and
size on the rotor? (but I meant stator) or how strongly do you feel
that the rotor magnets need to be weaker and smaller? Could too
strong cause lockups?
"We are not scientist, and again also not the inventors of the
device, so we used what we were instructed to use. I assume the
ceramic on the rotor is the weaker of the two fields, which in turns
allows the rotation, as compared to a balanced system."

Aluminum Doesn't Need to be Soldered
I asked, ...your website, and indirectly in instructions, say: `A
strip of aluminum is soldered to the bottom of the rotor shaft and
connected to ground.'
"This is something that we were instructed was required. We find
that solder is not needed. But because it was in the original plans
it was left there."

Spacing of Magnets
I asked: Have you ever let the pairs of magnets touch edges, as if
you had magnets too big? This is the kind of thing I am seeing on
the discussion board photos. (I know you already mention scale it
up if the magnets are bigger.):
"Correct, scale it up if the magnets are bigger. There is spacing
for a reason."

Alignment for Operation is Within Millimeters
I asked, How close is the alignment to get it working - millimeters,
1/8" inch?
"For us it is millimeters. When we learned the effect it did not
seem as delicate."

Rotation Speed Varies from 30 RPM to Very Fast
I asked about rotation speed:
"RPMs can vary. This from 30 RPM when you have not exactly hit the
correct position to a point that may actually frighten you. This
because you know that only glue is holding the magnet between stator
and a high velocity impact with hand, body, face. "
(30 RPM being one full revolution per 2 seconds.)

Speed Relative to Proper Positioning with Stator
More single Statements I received from MXLO:
"Rotor speed will vary depending on relation to stator/rotor."

Ground of Aluminum Strip Self-Contained
"The ground of the aluminum strip is created/contained within itself
in rotation of magnetic field."

About Getting the Plans Out
When I probed MXLO about their mission.:
"We do not always get our unit to start but with patience we can
start it again. Others have made it work and I am certain that
almost anyone can. We are not making a big effort to get it out
because it does not have national interest. The only interest for
many is as you said, to grab some prize. When we attempted to
relinquish the innovation on the inventor's behalf we were met with
many evils, so because of this we have no advanced designs or future
marketing plans."

Patience in Timing
Tips for timing:
"Patience, work with it for ten minutes then walk away for a half
hour. This will prevent frustration. At this time there is no rush
to save the planet. ;) "

I would put my opinion out there – RetroRocket59
If this concept is already owned or controlled by some military or
government agency and considering how many patents are out there,
that the possibility of someone having a leg to stand on in
secreting off to get rich on a patent is bad odds. The number of
people patenting 'mechanical' rotating arrangements over the last
100 years is in effect - astounding. And for one to additionally
create a novel and provable theory on the generation of energy...
it's been done.
---RetroRocket59---

Stator Template -- Arrows Up

See also: Arrows up (top side) on Stator

click for enlarged view

No Metal in Rotor; Take Your Time

The rotor will spin in whichever direction is catches torque. Please point out to your colleagues that they must not use a metal shaft on rotor, nor have any extending materials above rotor top surface, other then magnets and attaching screw. I am very impressed at the rate these experimenters are building the unit and the quality of their craftsmanship.

I am getting the impression though, that they believe they will just surround the rotor and it will spin. Well yes it will, once they have learned to handle it in the zero point field. Please tell them to take their time, and they will succeed.

Thomas Jean

* * * * *

Timing Procedure

Zinc-Plated Neos Not Required

Message 1 of 2

* * * * *

Message 2 of 2

Use fine thread to find Triangle center

If you look I used fine thread to find Triangle center. Used this as a reference point and worked around.

click for enlargement

Wayne

Coming into Focus

Imbalance May be the Objective

Ring Magnets Preferable to Discs

One thing that MXLO did say thru email was that Ring magnets produce a more desirable field than just a solid disc magnet.

Ken

Rotor Magnets non-ring; shaft non-conductive

Magnet Gauss level not Crucial

MXLO on copper wire and aluminum strip

Solder of Bearing not Essential

No Need for Electrical Connect for Aluminum to Bearing

I would repeat that last week, Thomas of MXLO said that soldering the bearing was only for stability.  There is no need for an electrical
connection to the bearing. [...]
---RetroRocket59---

Set Apparatus on Non-Mag. Table

North on compass points to South polarity

To determine which end of a permanent magnet is its north pole and which is its south, take a compass and hold it a reasonable (see note below) distance from one end of the magnet.

If the north end of the compass needle (often the red S end!) points toward this end of the magnet, you know that this end of the magnet is a south pole! That's because opposite poles attract and the "north" end of the compass needle, a north pole, is attracted to south poles.

Interestingly enough, the magnetic pole near the earth's geographic north pole is actually a south magnetic pole. That's why the north pole of the compass needle points toward the earth's north geographic pole.

NOTE: When you use a compass to detect which pole of the magnet is north, be careful not to bring the compass needle too close to the permanent magnet. A strong permanent magnet can remagnetize the compass needle and reverse its poles. To make sure that this hasn't occurred, check to see whether the compass still points toward the north pole after you bring it near strong permanent magnets.

HTH
-Elkiv.

References:

• http://science.howstuffworks.com/compass1.htm
• http://www.geolab.nrcan.gc.ca/geomag/what_nmp_e.shtml

Finding North on Your Magnet, Without a Compass

Wire Gauge Conversion Chart

See also

• Assembly Variations
• Assembly Cautions!
• Assembly Instructions

Page posted by SDA March 4, 2004
Last updated July 10, 2004 11:19:49 AM MST

Disclaimer: MXLO is an independent company that has given us permission to post their plans here.  This arrangement should not be construed as an endorsement by them of everything that appears here.

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